Irish Soda Bread
The Irish soda bread I love is a modern slightly sweet version of the craggy bread the Irish historically ate with their dinner each evening. As kids growing up in a family with Italian and English roots, we thought of ourselves as only American, Italian and English. A DNA test revealed, as expected, I am predominantly of Italian ancestry but it also showed that I am a combination of many heritages including some Irish ancestry. Whether or not Irish soda bread is a part of my heritage - I embrace it wholeheartedly as part of my history.
Irish soda bread doesn’t rely on yeast to rise rather utilizing baking soda (and usually baking powder). The absence of yeast (so no rising time) makes it much faster to prepare but also a denser finished product which can be dry. To offset a dry bread, I’ve utilized tangzhong (a Japanese technique of cooking a paste of flour and water so the bread retains moisture when baked). Using tangzhong in quick breads can be problematic if not used sparingly - that is why I use only a small amount of tangzhong - just enough to retain moisture. A few tablespoons of potato flour also lends moisture to the bread (anything potato seems a natural fit for Irish food). Buttermilk, commonly used as the liquid in Irish soda bread, by its nature lacks fat as the by-product of churning fat out of cream. By replacing some of the buttermilk with both whole milk and cream I add a new richness to the bread and a little vinegar lifts the acidity. The flour in Ireland is made with a softer wheat than U.S. flours, so to offset the difference I replace half of the all-purpose flour with cake flour. If cake flour isn’t available, all-purpose flour can be substituted, however, the bread will be a bit harder.
Tangzhong Irish Soda Bread
Makes 1 loaf
1½ cups - 6.5 ounces or 184 grams all-purpose flour (see note on how I measure flour here)
1½ cups cake flour - 6.4 ounces or 181 grams (see note on how I measure flour here)
2 tablespoons potato flour (not potato starch) - 0.8 ounce or 21 grams
½ cup - 3.5 ounces or 99 grams granulated sugar
½ teaspoon - 2.5 grams kosher salt
1½ teaspoons - 6 grams baking powder
1 teaspoons - 6 grams baking soda
6 tablespoons butter (3 ounces or 85 grams) - cold
6 tablespoons - 3 ounces or 85 grams whole milk
3 tablespoons - 1.5 ounces or 43 grams cream
½ teaspoon - 2 grams rice vinegar - cider or white vinegar may be substituted
1 cup - 4.7 ounces or 133 grams raisins
1½ tablespoons - 0.3 ounce or 9 grams caraway seeds - optional
2 large eggs - beaten
½ cup - 4 ounces or 113 grams buttermilk
Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Butter a baking dish. This bread can be made in a 7” - 8” (18-20 cm) casserole dish for a higher bread, a 10” (25 cm) cast iron frying pan for a lower bread or even a pie plate. If using a 10” frying pan, the loaf will be a bit free form.
Begin by grating the cold butter on the large holes of a box grater onto a piece of parchment paper. Place the parchment and butter into the freezer while you prepare the rest of the ingredients.
Measure the flours into a large bowl. Remove ~ 2 tablespoons (0.6 ounce or 16 grams) flour from the bowl and add it to a very small saucepan along with the whole milk. Whisk well until no dry bits remain. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly until mixture bubbles and thickens considerably. Remove from heat and add the cream and the vinegar. Whisk well until most of the lumps are gone. Set aside to cool.
Whisk the eggs. Remove ~1 tablespoon (14 grams) of beaten egg and place in a small bowl for using later as an egg wash. Whisk the buttermilk into the dish with the eggs. Set aside.
Add the potato flour, granulated sugar, salt, baking powder, and baking soda to the bowl with the flour. Stir. Add the grated frozen butter and stir to incorporate breaking up any large chunks with your fingers but leaving most of the butter intact. Add the raisins and caraway seeds. If the tangzhong mixture has cooled down sufficiently to add without melting the butter, then add it stirring well with a rubber spatula. Add the egg/buttermilk mixture stirring until completely incorporated. Use your hands to form it into a ball shape and drop it into the buttered baking dish.
Using a silicone cooking brush, paint the ball of dough with the remaining beaten egg. Using a serrated knife cut a deep X into the top of the dough (I wiggle the knife side to side after cutting to make wider cuts). Place in preheated oven and bake for ~ 35-40 minutes and then cover with parchment paper/foil and bake an additional 10-20 minutes until internal temperature reaches 180°F (82°C) or toothpick inserted comes out clean.
